There isn’t a fixed “expiration date.” Consider an upgrade if you notice:

• Uneven temps in rooms or rising energy bills
• Visible issues: wet/damp insulation, moldy smell, pest contamination, or insulation that’s matted/settled well below joist height
• Ice dams in winter or hot ceilings in summer
• Roof leaks or recent repairs that got insulation wet

Also check depth vs. recommended R-value. In the PNW, many homes target about R-49 to R-60 in the attic. If you’re low, topping up helps.

Color isn’t a performance factor.

• Fiberglass can be pink, yellow, or white; cellulose is usually gray; mineral wool is off-white/greenish.

Focus on type, depth (R-value), and condition. Dark “dirty” streaks can indicate air leaks; damp or clumpy spots mean moisture problems to fix before adding more.

Not always—but it’s the perfect time to evaluate. If insulation is dry, clean, and already near the target R-value, you can often keep it and add more on top. Replace any wet/contaminated sections. While you’re at it, we like to:

• Air-seal ceiling penetrations (lights, vents, pipes)
• Add baffles at eaves to keep soffit vents clear
• Verify balanced attic ventilation (intake + exhaust)

• Rolled/Batt (fiberglass or mineral wool): Pre-cut pieces that fit between joists; great for uniform framing and DIY. Must be installed without gaps or compression.
• Blown-in (fiberglass or cellulose): Loose fill that blankets irregular areas and gets around wiring/obstacles—often the best choice for attic top-ups. Installed with a machine for even coverage.

Either can perform well when installed to the right R-value with good air-sealing.

R-value = resistance to heat flow. Higher R means better insulation, more comfort, and lower bills. You can combine layers to reach your goal; just avoid compressing batts (compression reduces R). Local codes vary, but many PNW attics do well at R-49 to R-60. We’ll measure your existing levels and recommend the simplest path to hit target.